A fashion season can come to feel a lot like the movie Groundhog
Day—running from show to show, you find that even very disparate
designers will touch on many of the same themes. Not so Lagos-based
label Maki Oh, which operates well outside the fashion hive mind. This
time out, designer Maki Osakwe’s starting point was a Nigerian
hairstyling technique called threading, an inspiration she elaborated
into her traditional adire prints, including one of a girl with threaded
hair, and hairlike fringe embroidery. As is her wont, Osakwe fused her
Nigerian references with coolly
elegant Western silhouettes, notably pencil-lean dresses; the standout look here was a velour sheath with inserts of sheer material that produced a seemingly magical hang. The circular necklines and seaming on other pieces echoed the effect. Elsewhere, Osakwe explored more laid-back cuts, executing boxy tees, lapel-free jackets, and pajama pants. Still, this was a typically natty affair, relaxed but not casual per se. Likewise, Osakwe’s incorporation of heavier fabrics, such as the velour, and items fit for cooler weather, like the jackets, did nothing to diminish or distract from her unique point of view; Osakwe may be conceding to the seasonal needs of her increasingly international clientele, but she’s doing it her own way.
elegant Western silhouettes, notably pencil-lean dresses; the standout look here was a velour sheath with inserts of sheer material that produced a seemingly magical hang. The circular necklines and seaming on other pieces echoed the effect. Elsewhere, Osakwe explored more laid-back cuts, executing boxy tees, lapel-free jackets, and pajama pants. Still, this was a typically natty affair, relaxed but not casual per se. Likewise, Osakwe’s incorporation of heavier fabrics, such as the velour, and items fit for cooler weather, like the jackets, did nothing to diminish or distract from her unique point of view; Osakwe may be conceding to the seasonal needs of her increasingly international clientele, but she’s doing it her own way.
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